Even in these days of limited attention spans and built in obsolescence, the speed at which Tokyo transforms itself can still be dizzying. Buildings often go up and down at a startling rate, plus the businesses in them seem to change hands regularly. And yet at the same time, some things do mercifully stay the same. Like this old coffee shop for example. A fantastically cluttered little place that unapologetically offers little more than a tentative nod towards any kind of modernity.
This place certainly isn’t trying to add to Japan’s impressive number of Michelin stars. Neither is it trying to be something it’s not. Instead, it’s simply serving cheap, quick and not especially unhealthy food. All conjured up as well as consumed in surroundings that while cramped and merely functional, are also quite fascinating.
Sumo is nowhere near as popular as it once was. It presumably never will be either. But when there’s the very real possibility of a Japanese wrestler winning a tournament for the first time in 10 years, it can still garner a good deal of attention.